Icelandic Wilderness and Renewables
2021 | Reyjavik • Thorsmork • West Fjords 🇮🇸
Renewables? Before this trip, I never imagined myself getting involved in this industry. During my 2021 career break, I sought to become more involved in sustainability and climate tech. That’s when I discovered The Green Program through a quick internet search for educational programs; I thought, "Why not? Let's do it!”
I arrived in Reykjavik and all the memories from my 2017 Iceland trip came flooding back - the smells, the sights, and the sounds. I finally visited Hið Íslenzka Reðasafn (The Icelandic Phallological Museum) and had a climbing session at the local bouldering gym Klifurhúsið–this was needed to prep for what was coming next: ice climbing!
First Time for Everything
Sólheimajökull gave me so much nostalgia, but here I was hiking on this glacier again after 4 years. This was my first time ice climbing and I was not ready! The guides repelled us down into what I called the “void” and we had to ice climb back up (safely strapped!). I was so anxious; I tired my forearms out way too early and got a bit stuck, but I made it up eventually. I was so happy to finally check off ice climbing and proud of myself for going for the scary things.
Kiia (from Finland) became my adventure buddy right off the bat at Sólheimajökull. We met up again to visit Sky Lagoon with her fiancé. We tried the seven-step ritual and had interesting conversations into the evening over their specialty drinks. Some things I remembered from our chats were how saying a strict "No" is a norm in Finnish culture and how Icelanders are not as sustainable as the country is known to be… Interesting!
Off we go on another adventure! Kiia and I visited the Silfra fissure dive site in Þingvellir National Park. This site was created by the 1789 major earthquake between the North American and Eurasian tectonic plates, and it's known for having the purest and clearest waters in the world. We put on our suits, hopped into the fissure waters, and finished in about 45 minutes. Despite the water's year-round temperature of approximately 1°C, I think the outside air was way colder! On our way back home, we got to stop by a farm to say hello to Icelandic horses.
On a different day, I hiked across the Myrdalsjokull glacier and then entered the amazing blue and black ice cave of the Kötlujökull glacier on Mt. Katla.
Last but not least, one of the coolest thing that happened was connecting with Camilla online through my appreciation of her handmade soaps (Splash Iceland). I remember reaching out to her asking if she hosted any hands-on workshops on the cold press method. She said no, but she wanted to give me some soap samples whenever I go to Iceland; little did we know that this day came earlier than expected! Camilla was so sweet to pass by my Reykjavik stay and we had a little gift exchange.
The Green Program: Renewables
Our first stay was in Ölfus. Here’s where we did our ice breakers, formed our capstone projects, and played games that led to eating fermented shark and taking shots of cod fish oil.
From there, we visited Reykjavík University for a facility tour and afternoon lecture. I was impressed by the unique architectural design, which was inspired by the solar system. The window coverings are automated and respond to a weather station on the roof, lowering the blinds to prevent direct sunlight from entering classrooms. The building's wings are oriented along the east-west axis, which is optimal for daylighting and passive solar heat gain. The concrete walls and floors are thermally massive, storing heat from the day and releasing it at night, which reduces the building's need for heating.
The Green Program’s educational programming also included power plants, farms, restoration facilities and outdoor activities. We visited Orka náttúrunnar (”ON Power”) and Ljósifoss Hydropower Station to learn more about how Iceland harnesses renewable resources to power their country. Also, Ljósifoss has been here since 1937 and is the oldest hydroelectric power station in the River Sog!
We passed through lush greenery to have an outdoor lunch at Friðheimar, a family-run restaurant in South Iceland that offers tomato-based dishes made from their on-site greenhouse produce. Next, we learned about the history of ecological degradation and soil erosion in Iceland at Sagnagarður.
My favorite part of the trip was when we went on a geothermal hike one late afternoon. We put on our crampons and set off, but as the sun started to set, it quickly turned into a night hike. The grounds were covered in patches of ice, and strong winds with rain made for harsh conditions. However, it was all worth it when we finally reached the natural hot springs and soaked in the hot bath. We were surrounded by darkness and the Icelandic wilderness, which made for an unforgettable experience.
The next day, we headed towards Sólheimajökull (for me, once again!). By this point, I felt like an expert on the ice, haha! I helped the students put on their crampons correctly and halted the line formation when a student's crampons slipped off in a slightly steep area. Once we reached the top of the glacier, we were treated to a breathtaking sunrise. Words cannot do justice to how stunning it was.
The Midgard Family and Þórsmörk
The Midgard family welcomed us to their base camp in Hvolsvöllur. Where do I start? The homemade food and drinks were delicious, the people were warm and welcoming, and their beautiful facility included a sauna and hot pot (hot tub) surrounded by the Northern Lights. We also enjoyed the company of their Labrador, Hekla (named after the volcano)!
We ventured into the southern highlands of Þórsmörk with our 4x4s, climbing waterfalls inside the mountain ridge that was named after the Norse god, Þór (Thor). I was searching for flora and fungi. We ended the adventure back at the vehicles, making Icelandic-style hot dogs that were so yummy!
Our next adventure consisted of visiting a black sand beach and going on a surprise night hike through a forest. As a group, we formed a circle and shared our biggest fears and the things we wanted to let go of. For me, it was to “let go of guilt.” We then burned those things in a shared fire. We also had fun roasting marshmallows and bread on sticks while admiring some of trees that make up the 1% of forest in Iceland.
Comfort foods, Art, and Cold Therapy in Nature
Time flew and we were back in Reykjavik to take our COVID tests and say goodbye before parting ways. I stayed by the pond Tjörnin, which was another place that brought back 2017 memories in Iceland and the nearby live jazz event was amazing at Skuggi bar. Did some local activities like ice skating, exploring the hidden beach, tried Korean pork buns at KORE and the one and only Ramen Momo. Reykavik roasters was my go-to for a hot cup of cappuccino—it warms my soul every time and feels like home. Lastly, I finally visited the Perla museum to see the Wonders of Iceland exhibition; it was so surreal!
I decided that I want to try cold therapy–so I signed up for a cold bath therapy in nature and practiced the Wim Hof method (breathwork techniques) at the dimly lit meditation room at Andri Iceland. It felt like I was expressing emotions "involuntarily(?)" during the breathwork. I was crying happy tears and seeing certain types of colored blobs move in my eyelids. I think this is what psychedelics make u see(?), but just in a more natural form without intaking any drugs. The coach also spoke of the power of the "sigh" how it releases so much tensity.
Then we arrived at this secluded nature area for a dip in the cold water; I worked on my breathing consciously. The shock of the cold water really wakes you up, makes you become one with the now. It really is an experience of “mind over matter.”
West Fjords
Last but not least, I experienced the winter wonderland of Snæfellsnes Peninsula and craters of the West. I even saw the Northern Lights for the first time in my life! I felt so lucky since I wasn’t chasing them but they fell upon me at the right timing. I was hoping to see seals at the beach as well, but only found a huge whale skeleton laying there.
I also stopped by Snorri Sturluson’s home–he was an Icelandic politician, historian and writer. He was the one who wrote Prose Edda, a series of Norse Myths in prose form!
My safe place
I discovered something in Iceland - I discovered my happy, creative, free-spirited self. I felt safe, supported, welcomed, and most importantly, I felt like myself. For a moment, I didn't have to meet the expectations of my family or the desires of men.
I was inspired to get a tattoo by my collarbone–a typewriter font that reads “Þetta Reddast” backwards. This phrase loosely translates to “it will all work out okay.”
However, I know that I have to return to reality now. Until next time, Iceland. You will always be my safe place. Thank you for your gentleness and loving kindness.